Gili Meno + Bali Part 2, Indonesia

The Gili Islands are a cluster of 3 small islands off the main island of Lombok. It’s like Hawaii; the name of the state, comprised of 8 main islands, and also the name of the Big Island. Lombok was the state we were in, and we planned to stay on one of the smaller islands west of the main island of Lombok in Lombok called Gili Meno. Whew… still with me?!

We took a 2 hour shuttle bus to the pier where we boarded the slow boat, carrying us 6 hours across the Bali Sea from Bali to Lombok. Another 2 hour shuttle bus ride north through torrential downpour up the coast delivered us to another pier, where we took the public boat to the quiet little Gili Meno. Gili Air and Gili Trawangan flank either side, both booming with music and crowds. Our little island was calm and quiet. We weren’t met with obnoxious drivers or pitched to go to this guesthouse or that hostel. We knew where Megan and Orlando were staying, so we decided to walk that direction and see what we could find for a room on the way.

The walk wasn’t far, maybe 30 minutes total, and the little resort housed only 4 bungalows and a warung, with beachfront cabana’s overlooking the shell filled beach and endless blue ocean. The bungalows were full, but we lucked out and claimed the little ‘spare’ room on stilts. Open air, basic bamboo wall-shades, fan cooled, and an airy mosquito net made the space. The shared bathroom with brackish water was downstairs, but that was fine. We staked a claim on this little gem, which cost half as much as the bungalows, and grabbed some dinner in a cabana as we waited to surprise our friends of our arrival.

This is what it looks like to do taxes from the road.

I like my coconuts like I like my wine and cheese... aged to perfection. None of those gummy green young coconuts for this girl!

The next five days were spent sunning, reading, swimming, writing, and relaxing. We enjoyed a late night with some locals, singing along as familiar songs were strummed by one talented fellow who tuned his guitar with an App on his phone and would strum a few notes and say “or something like that” to every song he was still learning. Oasis, Coldplay, and Katy Perry hummed from his guitar. We sang along when we could, and ignored missed versus or shortened choruses. Orlando showed us the plankton that light up when disturbed in the night water. We splashed around as little lights flickered and shined like glitter or twinkle lights in the water. The stars were incredible, more than I’d ever seen. It was perfect, even with the techno beats drifting over the open ocean from Gili T.

I almost turned into a plate of gado-gado I ate so much

The Orlando’s and their buddy Ben left 1 day before we did, so Will and I spent our last day in the water with the fish. The current was torturous, but after a few attempts, we made it out to where the reef drops off, like a giant wall in the ocean, with nothing but royal blue consuming us. We floated in the water, swimming through jellyfish clusters that sent gentle zaps through our bodies and spotting lobsters and crabs, beautiful neon fish, and even a few reef sharks. Gili M is known for it’s snorkeling; the water is extremely clear, the reefs rich with sea life, and the water fairly shallow, allowing great visibility quite far into the ocean up until the dramatic drop off. Sea turtles nest here, and we were on a hunt.

We were in the water for hours, overly sunkissed backsides didn’t stop us from floating with the turtles. We saw 4 or 5 turtles in all, following them to the bottom of the sea floor, thanks to our newly learned skilled to equalize our ears as we decent and nice deep breaths, returning to the surface to gasp for air as they did, and following their paths until the disappeared into the dark abyss beyond the drop off. It was incredible. An intimate view into the turtles life. They weren’t threatened, and although kept one eye on us, let us swim fairly close. Most of the boats and tours were long gone, and we waded in the water much later than any other snorkelers from shore. We risked the boats (and bigger sharks… where there are small sharks, bigger ones can’t be far off…) and quick approaching sunset to swim just a little longer, eventually making our way to shore with the low tide. We had to walk on part of the reef the water was so low, and swim carefully through the grassy weeds where the spikey urchins call home, but it was all well worth it. We were in awe, it was magical and special and one of my favorite days on the trip. We’re debating splurging on a Go-Pro so we can capture moments like this. The images in my mind are so vivid, but I wish I had more than just my memories to share.

We decided to go back to Bali; Nyepi celebrations over, we opted to return via slow boat, a decision I was against. At this point, we had contacted the airlines to inquire about our return flight… a tentative date penciled on the calendar, a looming count down, a ticking clock to the end of our journey. And although I am excited to return, I’m protective of our remaining time. My time is starting to feel more valuable; I am willing to spend a little more to save a little time.

My other half didn’t quite feel the same, the increase in cost seemed frivolous, and although not exactly excited, I agreed to ride the slow boat.

Now, in marriage, when you concede, give in, compromise (pick whatever word you prefer), you do so and move on happily. No grudges, no resentment. You’re a team, after all, and ultimately you agreed on the decision, regardless of the circumstances. It’s not always easy, but that’s what it takes to share your life with someone. It’s all about the ‘we.’

Well, I was fine with the long shuttle to the boat. I was fine with most of the slow boat ride. But by hour 12, when I could have been back on land for hours at this point, eating a delicious dinner or taking a dip in the ocean, I lost my patience. As we sat in the dock, waiting for what looked like some necessary repairs to wrap up, Will could sense my tension.

“Are you ok? It’s too bad this is taking so long. Are you just frustrated since we’re stuck here?”

I whipped around, THAT look in my eyes: “I’m frustrated because my time is worth more than THIS!! It’s been TWELVE HOURS, Will! We could have been there hours ago!!! That’s it!! I know I can jump to the dock from here. I’m giving this 10 more minutes, then I’m getting of this damn boat!”

Ok, so much for my team effort…

Lucky for everyone in the vicinity, especially me, the boat finally docked and I didn't need to scale the side of the boat and shimmy down the rope tying us to the dock. We still had over an hour drive to Kuta and hadn’t eaten dinner. Will figured out the shuttle while I found some food, and we ate on the bus, my crankiness calming down as the sleepiness settled in.

I woke up and we were back in Ubud, an out-of-the-way stop necessary since the Ubud bus was filled without 2 additional passengers going there, and we debated getting off. I had heard nothing good about Kuta and didn’t care to go there, but Will wanted a central location with easy access to the airport for our fast-approaching flight in a few days. I agreed that his logic made sense, and although I wanted another chance to make my yoga class, we stayed on the bus and waved good-bye to Ubud.

Finally in Kuta after 11pm, we wandered around to find an inexpensive place to stay. The slow boat took significantly longer than we thought it would, and we didn’t have a clue where to stay or what to do there. It was loud, bright, and the streets were swimming with drunk travelers. Somehow a day of sitting on a ferry, shuttle, slow boat, and shuttle is exhausting, so we were both edgy and ready to sleep.

A man approached me, asking, “Excuse me?”

“Yes?” I replied, as Will walked up.

“Ecstasy?”

“No, thanks man.” Will said as we walked away.

“Wait, what?! Did he just offer me E? Is that what people say, anyway? E? Or do they say Ecstasy? Anyway, I thought he said ‘excuse me!’ and I replied ‘yes!’ I almost accidently bought ecstasy.”

“Actually, I think your reply was ‘what?’”

“Whatever. I step off a bus and am offered ecsatcy. Why are we here? I don’t like it here.”

Bright flashing lights illuminated the streets, studded with bar after bar and club after club. I missed my sea turtles and quiet beach.

After turning down a gross room, we settled for one just as gross, just to get some sleep. I stayed up late researching where we could move to, and almost went over there after midnight to see if I could book a room right then and there. I woke up when drunk travelers noisily marched home, and again when the construction started early next door. We ate our free breakfast and sipped our free coffee and walked to the new spot I’d found.

It was on a quite little side street, away from the mess of Kuta, which I’d read is ‘one of the three must-see Ks’ for travelers, along with Koh San Road, and Katmandu. I didn’t care for Koh San Road, no wonder I wasn’t loving the vibe in Kuta, so I appreciated this little hotel tucked away from the madness. It was more expensive than we planned to spend, but the AC was pumping, the bed big and white, and the pool too inviting to pass up in the intense heat. We booked 3 nights and enjoyed the little luxuries, compensating for the splurge by reminding ourselves we were about to hit the trail again, moving from city to city and probably staying in less comfortable places for the next 2 months. We wanted to feel rested.

We toured around Kuta that first full day, dodging aggressive vendors selling the same-same in shop after shop. Kuta beach was also on ‘the best of’ list for Bali, and like Lovina, I didn’t quite understand why. It was nice, but nothing wonderful. The water was extremely rough, surfers speckled throughout the crashing waves, and we took a quick dip before retiring to the sand. It was so incredibly hot, and without swimming water to cool off in, we didn’t last long. It was too hot for the beach. Is that even a thing?

As I cooled off in the shade, a vendor summoned me over.

“You buy Bali clothes? For you, good price.”

'That’s what you all say' I thought as I smiled politely at the kind-faced old woman, wrinkles circling her eyes from years in the hot Bali sun.

“No, thank you though. I don’t want any.” She was selling touristy t-shirts screen-printed with “BALI” across the front.

“Why you no want Bali clothes?! You no want to help?” She practically barked at me.

“I already own some clothes from Bali (referencing my romper), I don’t need anymore.” I politely responded.

“You listen, if you buy Bali clothes, you only buy from me. You come ask for Megan.”

She replied, pointing to her straw hat, where “MEGAN” was written with sharpie. I promised if I bought any BALI clothes, it would be from her.

We chatted for a while longer, her aggression relaxed to into friendly cantor, and she asked about Will and how long we’d been married.

“You no baby? Make Bali baby! You make baby here and go home with little Bali baby!”

I laughed and said that would be quite the surprise, and Will walked up as I was amusing Megan and her crazy ideas.

“Oh hello husband! You make Bali baby!” Megan grinned at Will.

“HA! I hope not!!”

We laughed and waved our farewell to Megan, who got up and approached a group of girls she must have known. “YOU SAY YOU COME BACK TO BUY!” was all I heard. I had no intention on breaking my promise to Megan, and didn’t buy anything else from Bali.

We rented a motorbike and rode to one of the sacred temples in Bali, Tanah Lot. Jutting into the ocean, you can access the shrine with low tide in the early mornings, when the priests go out to light incense and pray. We made it in time for the midday sun to beat down on us hard, the waves crashing too high to access the temple, and walked around wiping sweat from our brows between taking photos. It was a beautiful site, and worth the hot drive in the relentless sun. It’s best known for the beautiful sunsets, but that’s also when it’s busiest, so we opted for the quieter mid-day visit.

We spent the afternoons by our pool, much more calm and welcoming than the angry ocean, and ate at a little warung with decent food, but the only spot I could find gado gado in my last few days in Indonesia. Kuta is filled with western restaurants, Australian bars, English Pubs, pizza and pasta joints, and finding a local place proved difficult. We enjoyed a nice massage, I enjoyed another one the next day, and planned our last leg of the journey, “The Loop,” that would take us from Chaing Mai, Thailand, overland through Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia, then ending back in Bangkok. We’d spend a few days there before flying back to the states. The entire Loop would take us about 8 weeks, so we roughed out our plans from the poolside of our place, as I argued with the internet and attempted to upload the million blog posts ready to go. I succeeded by posting one.

Our flight to Chiang Mai left late in the evening, with a 6-hour layover in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. For our last day in Bali, we went back down to the beach for a bit and returned to the market, where I had found a beautiful dress hand made by a young woman. We had chatted a bit, and she shared she exports a lot of her tie-dyed designs to California. I smiled and said that makes sense, and wished her good luck. Unfortunately, she wasn’t there when I returned, and neither was the dress. I was happy for her that she sold it. I wish I knew where she sold her clothing in the states.

We took a taxi to the airport a little early to use the internet (hopeful it would be faster than what we had been using) and to avoid the heat since we checked out of the protection of our room. Our flight left around 10pm, landing in KL after 1am with the time change. I wrote on the plane ride in an effort to exhaust myself enough to get some sleep at the airport during our long layover.

We landed and found our way to the check in kiosks, and were lucky enough to find an AirAsia employee to approve our tickets (remember that annoying check we need before going through immigration?), allowing us to pass through to the gate and opening up a whole new world of comfort in lieu of the hard floor other passengers slept on before passing immigration. We found the movie lounge, and as Will got a little rest, I watched Maleficent and wrote, desperately trying to get caught up with our blog.

Back on a plane, with very little rest, we flew to Chiang Mai, our 3rd visit to Thailand. We negotiated a tuk-tuk rate and rode to a guesthouse I had read about. We knew the drill, and it felt like returning home, knowing what to expect, what prices were fair, and how to communicate the basics in the native language. It was good to be back.

From Indonesia, with love,

Sara + Will