Solo in Seoul

We've had an incredible time together so far. Our adventures have been quite memorable and would simply not be the same had we experienced them apart. I feel so happy that we wanted to embark on this adventure as a team. It would not have been the trip I wanted without having Will to share it with.

Of course, alone time is refreshing. It helps anyone recharge and be better for themselves and their partner. So, we felt comfortable with the ease of traveling in Seoul and decided to enjoy a private day separately.

Calm down. I obviously survived.

One of our bunk mates, Martin, a happy Korean that embodies everything you'd think a Korean would be like as portrayed by SNL, mentioned a phenomenal and popular shopping district called Myeongdong that sold clothes and make up. He repeated "make-up" quite a few times while looking at me and patting his face, smiling a huge, goofy grin. I wonder if he was thinking "dear lord lady maybe you should get some make up," trying to help me...

It wasn't a far ride from our subway stop, so I paid for the fare and was on my way. It was a little thrilling being alone in a new foreign city. As long as I can remember, I've felt very comfortable in large cities, and have significantly preferred our time spent in the metropolitan areas over the sleepy towns. I feed off the energy of the hustle and bustle, and love the crowds and rush. I felt comfortable and excited to explore on my own, where I wanted, at my pace. It was liberating!

I easily found the first shopping area, where the streets were crowded with people and store after store was flooded with women seeking retail therapy. Many of the stores did, in fact, sell make-up. The area wasn't too large, but almost every corner housed the same series of shops. I quickly meandered through the people, making no stops in-store, and headed towards Shinsagae, one of a chain of department stores headquartered in Seoul, selling all luxury and designer goods. Busan’s Shinsegae is actually the world’s largest department store, and since we didn’t stop there, I was interested to see what it was like.

I moseyed around the 10+ floors of high end, extremely expensive goodies and stood out like a sore thumb in my rain coat, leggings, and New Balance shoes. The basement, though, was where my heart went a-flutter, as Shinsagae is home to an incredible grocer, stocked with fine foods and the prettiest produce I'd ever seen.

One of my favorite pastimes in Minneapolis is to wander the Farmers market on the weekend. Every summer I feel reunited with old friends: the jolly young vendor pushing samples of cheese, the smiley salt & pepper haired seller of smoked fish and farm fresh eggs, and the Asian families with my favorite flower arrangements from Rosemount. Put a coffee in my hand and I could spend the early hours of Saturday and Sunday walking through every aisle, stopping to ask questions or negotiate a sale.

So naturally, one of my favorite past times has been to walk through the open air markets, fish markets, street markets, and even simple grocery stores as we country hop. There is something so honest about seeing people purchase groceries, running normal errands; it's a much clearer view into the real life picture of the locals. What they buy, how much, what they may prepare with it. Their carts are filled with things I've never seen. It's fascinating! If I'm lucky, someone will share some information in English so I know what odd veggie I'm poking. Mostly I just look, smell, and photograph. Regardless, I love the experience, and thoroughly enjoyed the time I spent at Shinsagae.

This was unlike any market I've seen before, putting Lunds, Byerly’s, even Kowalski’s to shame. There was an entire island for mushrooms alone. Mushrooms! In shapes, sizes, and colors I've never seen. The apples practically smiled at me. They were sampling bananas. Banana samples??! Probably because they were so heavenly it would be a crime to assume they were any old regular non-Shinsagae banana. I probably circled the place 3 times. There was a separate room for wine (I rushed through. I wouldn't want to risk blowing our entire months food budget on a nice bottle of wine in a fit of weakness!) and moved even quicker through the fresh cheese selection. Meats, pastries, the deli, all pristine, each counter more spectacular than the last.

Just one of the beautiful cake cases

Aisles and aisles of jams and jellies

Cub Foods should look in having some chandeliers installed...

Having worked for a retailer, I am dumbfounded by the amount of payroll they spent on staffing. Every corner an apron glad, glistening-eyed employee urged me to ask for help. It was not just grocery shopping, it was a supreme experience! An event. An outing. You could make a day of it with girlfriends.

I even found a section with Stonewall Kitchen jams and jellies, just like Dayton’s used to sell (and now Macy’s does, of course)! I felt the gentle sting of longing for home and smiled thinking about red pepper jelly over cream cheese and crackers at the cabin.

After walking through all that goodness, I was hungry. What better way to satiate my hunger post exploring the world’s most epically luscious grocer than...eating the homemade PB&J I'd packed. Remember folks, this is not glamorous. It's rough and tumble. Lucky for me, PB&J is a treat, as I never ate it at home, and it was greatly enjoyed (is that sad?!) as I navigated to Namdaemun Market.

It's mind boggling that on the east side of the street is this immaculate and luxury department store, bursting with thousand dollar wallets and $50 bananas, and on the west side, a street market 5 times the size with $.25 street food and barrels of goods just waiting to be haggled over.

I got lost in blocks and blocks of market, vendors shouting for attention to their goods. Fake bags (Tory Burch, Marc Jacobs, and LeSportsac were very common) hung from rafters, army surplus gear and mittens were overflowing from large black trash bags, beaded bracelets, sandals, hats of every kind... you name it, this market had it. Many of the vendors had the same goods as the last. Really it just came to negotiating a price. I wandered and wandered and stumbled upon a little stand, women all a flurry, cramming and pushing their way to the center.

I nudged my way through to see what the commotion was about. The tiny stand housed hundreds of scarfs, all strewn about, being sifted through by shoppers. The stand owner was ripping open plastic bags and throwing new scarves into the mix as quickly as they were being snatched up. They were a mere 2000 Korean Won a piece, or $1.84. I immediately started pillaging the pile. It was pure entertainment to spot a pretty scarf and dart for it before another. A little tugging back and forth took place. I laughed to myself and thought of the episode of “Friends” when Monica goes to find her wedding dress at a sample sale and fights over it with a fellow deal-searcher (‘The one with the cheap wedding dress.” Watch it when they release the series on Netflix!!). It was such a fun and silly experience, I knew I needed to find one for keeps. It didn’t take long, and I was so pleased I didn't even negotiate the price and left new scarf in hand, smile on face. My first purchase!

I'm taking orders now and starting a mini import business. Let me know what colors you want and I'll charge you $5. What? I have to haul it around until the summer (Just kidding, Uncle Sam)!

Sporting my new scarf and playing dress up

I didn't want the sun to go down before getting home, so I made my way to the hostel to see how Will's day was. I ended up beating him home, and enjoyed some quiet time reading to wrap up my first solo day in weeks.

It was a fun day that got even better when Will got back. Unfortunately, he didn't have quite as enjoyable a day, as we had left our computer charger somwhere between our hostel in Seoul and the Peter Pan Hostel in Andong, and he'd spent the day trying to figure out a replacement with little success. But, he can tell you all about that later!

When Will got home, he said he liked my scarf and asked how much it cost. He laughed and said, "it's probably made in China."

"Nah uh!!" I retorted, semi appalled. "I looked and didn't see a tag. I'm sure it was made here. It's local."

That night, we headed out for some fun that Will had planned. It was something so unheard of in Korea that the front desk didn't even know what we were talking about as we departed the hostel...

Monday Night Football!!

Will found a Canadian expat bar called Rocky Mountain Tavern with cheap wings and beer that replays Monday Night Football games at 7:00PM on Tuesdays. Will had avoided social media and the internet just for this occasion; it was a big game...

Early on in my dating career with Will, I learned of the intense rivalry between the Redskins and the Cowboys. Naturally, albeit unfortunately, it makes sense. I also learned Cowboys hate Eagles. What's more american than Cowboys and Eagles? You'd think they'd be friends. Whatever. It's beyond me.

I wouldn't be surprised if he had secretly ensured we were in a city that would allow us to watch the game. Unfortunately, Tony's (as in Romo- we're on a first name basis at our house) back injury was flaring up and the Boys didn't prevail over the Redskins. Even with the loss, the beer was still cold and cheap and the wings were still spicy and cheap. I'd call that a huge win!

Later, while enjoying our date night and wearing my new scarf, the 'Made in China' tag started scratching my neck...

Solo from Seoul, with love,

Sara

#explore #seoul #market