Ring my Bell

Our second stop in Osaka was a quick pit stop to collect our China Visas. The entire process was surprisingly easy. We walked in, skipped the line, grabbed our passports with their new China Visa stickers, and were on our way in 20 minutes. With nothing else planned, we swung by the Osaka castle. Will was excited to finally see some Samurai stuff, and happily disregarded the "NO PHOTOS' sign to snap a few pictures. A few markets and some Japanese Whiskey later, we laid low for the rest of the night in our rough and tumble hostel, since the following day would be an early and long one.

We began the morning with a nice run around Osaka. Unfortunately, I use the term ‘nice’ loosely and ‘run’ quite literally, as we started the day with a full on sprint from the subway station to the bus terminal to catch our bus to the next city on our adventure.

Pre-race, we started the day on time. The subway station was immediately outside our place, and we had already purchased breakfast for the bus ride. We got to the ticket machine and Will partially paid for our two tickets with cash, asking me for the remainder in coins (I am the coin bearer). I pulled out enough for only 1 and a half tickets, and heard no more coins jingling in my purse. Naturally, this station also turned out to be the only station we can remember that didn’t have an ATM. We darted out of the station and ran across the street. No ATM. Went down another block. No foreign cards. We were losing time fast. Four convenience store ATM’s spread out over two blocks and too much past time later, cash in hand, we ran back to the subway and exitedly hopped on the train.

Success!

Not...we quickly came to the realization that only half the battle was won; it would be extremely tight getting to the bus terminal. And we would not be able to rebook, we would need to purchase new tickets on a new bus. Travel expenses are a big part of our budget, this would be a huge hit if we needed to buy 2 new seats. Plus, we would miss the day Will planned and was excited for us to experience.

So, on the subway, I suited up for the inevitable sprint from the subway station to the bus terminal much like I envision an Olympic runner from Kenya doing; I checked my shoes, realizing Birkenstock was not the ideal sponsor for my sprint, and switched to my New Balance pair, sans socks; I stuffed my Baggu of bus necessities into my pack for full arm-pumping action; I tucked my cross body bag under the hip buckle of my pack to minimize its flapping in the intense wind caused by my would-be record speeds; and I mentally repeated pump-up, champion-in-training, motivational speeches as if I were preparing the dance team for their state title win. I was interupted mid-thought:

"I'm going to run to the bus."

"Ok..."

"I'm not going to wait for you."

"Ok..."

"Babe, I mean I am going to run and hold the bus for you."

I smiled sweetly and secretly rolled my eyes. Or maybe it was blatantly.

"No need to hold the bus for me."

The train doors opened and I launched eloquently passed the old man who may or may not have tumbled onto the tracks (but really, he’s fine and I was cautious of my elders). For a while, I had the lead (“I'm not going to wait for you…”). That didn’t last long, but I didn’t stop running, even with my 17+ lb pack bouncing behind me.

We dodged through some work-commuting civilians without much issue; it was very early and the morning rush wasn’t upon us. We pummeled down stairs, then unbearably back up another set, ran right through what I assume were ‘don’t walk’ signs, and avoided sidewalk-riding bicyclists. I even correctly navigated us to the terminal. Which is a miracle in and of itself, as I never have a clue where we are.

Inexplicably, we made it to the bus with just enough time to wipe the sweat of our brows, which took a full size towel, and share a wink and a laugh. It would have been way too boring to make it to the bus with ease.

We plopped down into our seats and enjoyed our crappy convenience store pastries (which secretly are amazing and I love eating, like the fat kid I really, truly am, even though I act annoyed when they are the cheapest, only option we have for on-the-run food. HA! Pun not intended!).

Although that ordeal felt like what should be the end of a long, exhausting day, our real plan was to hike between the two old post towns of Magome and Tsumago in the Kiso Valley. It would be a few train/bus/shuttle rides away, but we thought it worth the trouble. Will read it was an easy walk between the two towns, and we were looking forward to seeing a different, more rural part of Japan.

Magome is a beautifully preserved post town that looks much like it did during the mid-18th century, however the 'easy walk' between Magome and Tsumago was actually not easy. It was 7.3 km (4.5 miles) through the forest, and if I didn't know any better, I would say it was all uphill. It was beautiful though, and we trudged though damp trails and enjoyed the waterfalls and tiny villages.

Early in the hike we stumbled upon a bell that said "ring loud" above the picture of a bear. Not only was our 'easy walk' in a serene forest with no other people in site, it was also through bear country. This was quite the day!! Clearly, we made it to Tsumago uneaten. It was a beautiful hike and a great way to spend our last day in Japan.

From the end of the trail, it was another local bus back to the same train line to get us back to where we would catch the night bus to Tokyo….to catch our flight to Seoul.

So, to sum up leaving Japan, we rushed to the subway to run and catch a 3 hour bus ride that brought us to the train that transported us to a shuttle that took us up a mountain where we hiked 5 miles to hop on another bus which brought us to the train that took us back to the station for the overnight bus to Tokyo, where upon arrival we immediately took the subway to another train that took us to the airport...

And, at the end of what was 7,682 and a half hours of travel (I did the math myself!), we had… champagne!!! THANK YOU WILL for ensuring we have American Airlines Admirals Club status and access to their facilities. I had planned to shower there, and instead drank free bubbly and ate free sushi and stashed some apples and bananas for the flight. It was the best decision of my life.

Unshowered, full of raw fish and my favorite beverage, we boarded the plane for South Korea (or was it North??) happy and giggly, high-fiving over the success of our first conquered country and ready to tackle the next.

From the Tokyo AA Admirals Club, bubbly in hand, with love,

Sara + Will

#japan #osaka #tokyo #travel #magome #tsumago