Kyoto is Tokyo all scrambled up

Welcome to Kyoto!

We took the night bus to Kyoto, which sounds like I rode on something double decker, driven by Earl, and squeezed me flat as a pancake while weaving through putzy muggle cars. But since I don’t live in Harry Potter’s world (and we didn’t go to Universal Studios Japan to experience it), my night bus wasn't quite as extraordinary. It wasn’t just a regular city bus, though, and housed nearly fully reclining seats, foot rests, and a bubble hood that pulled right over your entire head to protect your sleeping self from fellow riders and weird onlookers (although no one on our bus seemed weird. But you never know). Unfortunately, Will and I were unable to sit together due to a mix-up while booking, and when asked, the shy girl next to me politely agreed to switch if Will’s seatmate was female. Which he wasn’t. So I settled in with shy-girl, who was very nice and even asked the driver if Will and I could take 2 other seats side-by-side, like the pair directly across the aisle. Unfortunately again, the driver shared that we would be making additional stops throughout the drive, and that there would be more passengers boarding the bus. We were planning to sleep the entire ride, anyway, so we kissed goodnight and accepted our fate.

We stopped every 2 hours for rest room breaks and to pick up passengers. Shy-girl used every stop, and since she was sitting on the inside, I also arose from my bubble-domed slumber every 2 hours. Will’s seatmate, a larger young man who probably would have enjoyed sitting next to shy-girl, was also nice. Will was out cold throughout the entre ride, except for when his seatmate snuggled in a little too close. Regardless, the ride went fast, we saved money by avoiding a hostel stay that night, and took advantage of an entire day in Kyoto since we arrived so early the following day.

I awoke to the driver announcing our stop and looked around, rubbing my eyes, to gain my bearings. The seats across from me were still empty.

After hopping off the night bus (like Harry Potter), a wonderful traveling couple from Taiwan helped us find the bus ticket counter, and for 500 Yen we were able to travel anywhere throughout Kyoto on the bus system for the day. We arrived at our 2nd hostel with ease and were greeted by a quick and slightly spazy, very thin Japanese man who ran the place. He reminded me of a hummingbird; he rushed over, talked to us in broken english, then just flit away before we had any idea what he was trying to share, his attention drawn to something else, then rush back over. Who knows when I was supposed to wear which slippers where? Spazy as he was, he generously guarded our packs for us so we could go explore the city before our actual check-in time (as we got into the city very early).

Kyoto was a whirlwind of shrines and more shrines. And temples. And more shrines. There are shrines on almost every corner. Each one slightly different than the last. Only slightly. And we saw every single one of them. Not really, but Will tried.

After some major shrine-time, we walked towards downtown Kyoto to the open-air Nishiki Market. Fresh produce and more pickled vegetables than I even knew could (or should) be pickled lined the main drag. Vendors sold specialty food items on a stick that could challenge the State Fair. And we wandered around, tasting as many little things as we could. Starting with BBQ squid on a stick stuffed with rice. It was tasty and chewy, not my favorite, but not regrettable. Next up was a delicious fried fish cake, skewered on a stick like a deep-fried lollipop. Rounding out the salty treats, we tasted an incredible honey juice, made of flavored honey concentrate mixed with ice-cold water. I’ve never seen anything quite like it. The concentrate was thinner than honey and flavored with berries, cherries, lemon, and other additions I’d yet to taste. It could be used on its own as a sticky topping to cakes, breads, and other sweet treats, mixed with water, or, better yet, alcohol to crank things up a notch. Sadly, this was one of what I assume will be many times I wish I had room to bring little goodies like this home with me (although regardless of the room, I don’t think hauling a collection of food-goods is something I’d be interested in doing, anyway. But who am I kidding? I would totally have eaten every last treat before even making it to India).

Pickeled everything.

BBQ squid State Fair style.

Even outside of the market, Kyoto is lined with adorable shops, boutiques, convenient stores, cafes, coffee shops, restaurants, and grocery stores. It’s a very warm and enchanting little-big city. The streets are narrow and windy, more like alleys than roads, but each is still jam-packed with charm and something unique. I would highly recommend adding Kyoto to your travel list if you like antiquing and wondering through endless streets of shops. From unique handmade jewelry to boutiques filled with locally made clothing, and numerous bakeries to refuel, Kyoto is a refined and well-stocked city.

We knew the Super Typhoon, named Vongfong, was quickly approaching the main land; Okinawa was hit and numerous areas of Japan were in the storm’s path. We decided to add a day to Kyoto to account for the necessary time spent in the hostel, safe from the storm. Since this wasn’t planned, we needed another night in the Kikunawa Inn and had to switch rooms. It was pretty rough moving from our quaint little Japanese style room with a balcony to an old Tea Room with a beautiful walk out garden and fountain. Remember when I was worried the first hostel would be the nicest? This cute and spacious room was absolutely perfect to hide away from the storm. We spent the day the storm staretd rolling in walking the city in the light drizzle, so spending the afternoon and evening in the warm room was perfect. We bought a bottle of wine (a very fancy 400 yen bottle- less than $4) that tasted like $4.00, and settled in for the night, reading, planning the next leg of our trip, and avoiding the rain. Lucky for us, rain is all we saw of Vongfong, and it wasn’t enough to slow us down anymore than a cozy night in.

Vongfong rolling in.

Weathering the storm.

Tea Room for two.

Our last morning at sweet-little-gaunt-man's hostel was my birthday. What an unexpected way to celebrate 28. I never would have guessed, even 2 months ago, that this is where I would celebrate another incredible year. Historically, even-aged birthdays are a struggle (just ask those who attended my 24th… how dumb), but this year was full of excitement. I am in Japan. With my husband. I am on this incredible journey. My friends and family (that’s YOU!) everywhere else in the world are supportive, encouraging, and just as excited for me to be experiencing what I am. What’s there to fuss about? Not a thing. The owner even offered to take our photo out front of his adorable place as we were leaving, like a sweet little gift he didn’t know he was giving me. It was a great day…

We started with an apple and café au lait (juice box style) and a grin ear to ear. Wandered the amazing streets of Kyoto. Visited more shrines, antiqued (and found the most amazing chandeliers I’ve ever seen. None of which seemed to be Japanese), and ventured further north for a few more shrines and historical stops. We ate at a little spot on the way back to the bus station, some delicious udon noodles in a lemongrassy and anise spiked broth, and finished with a sweet rice cake dessert covered in sugar from a happy street vendor.

It was a rough day of navigating the buses, but we finally located the neighborhood where our 2nd Kyoto hostel was. For the 3rd time while navigating through Japan, a local kindly approached us asking if we needed help, totally unsolicited. Although I am hopeful we don’t look that horribly lost and confused, I think this generosity is just normal for most Japanese. They see someone who may need some assistance and simply offer it. This kind woman pointed us in the direction of the Tani House In (yes, with only 1 ‘n’) and we quickly approached the garden-obscured home. The cutest little old woman welcomed us, spoke very broken but very welcoming English, and showed us to our room. Although spacious, it was clear this hostel was a lot of work for this little old lady, and dust bunnies also resided here. A lot of dust bunnies. So we weren’t quite as sure of the cleanliness. And the fact that the door could only lock from the inside added to our concern about this pick, but little-lady quickly quieted our nerves by delivering hot green tea and delicious cakes stuffed with yummy filling. We got settled in, Will worked on some plans, I got the beds ready, and we freshened up to spend the night on the town to celebrate 28.

But before I share the greatness that was my birthday dinner and evening out, let me explain the bed situation. Traditionally, there is little furniture in a Japanese bedroom. All of the rooms we have stayed in are Japanese style, where we lay on futon mattresses dressed in sheets and sleep under a simple blanket. We each use our own silk sheet, as well, adding a layer between the hostel’s fitted sheet and blanket (you never know…) and us. At the Tani house, we were unsure anything had ever been washed, and even though the charm and toothy grin of the owner warmed our hearts, we just weren’t confident in the bedding. And, the window wouldn’t close, so it was going to be a chilly slumber. I, being a good wife, pulled one futon mattress out for each of us from the closet overfilled with bedding in our room, laid them side by side, rested a sheet on top, rolled out our silk sheets, and put a blanket down for each of us. After an amusing evening, we came home very tired and ready for sleep, climbed into our welcoming and ready beds, and slept horribly. At what I assume was 3am, Will finally got up, mumbled some profanity, and added a significant amount of blankets to our beds (that I had avoided), and an additional futon for him to sleep on top of (after mistakenly thinking it was a super thick blanket). I didn’t realize an avid camper needed so much padding on the floor… I was fine! But, baggy-eyed and groggy, I received a well-deserved lecture on my poor bed making skills. I’ll try a little harder next time.

Pre bedtime, we decided to head back to the Gion district to explore some of the nightlife we missed the night before (while avoiding a little super typhoon), and planned to eat sushi from one of those kitschy little conveyor belt restaurants. It’s simple; your dinner costs as much as you eat and marked by the number of plates you use. Our spot was 130 yen per plate, busy with locals and tourists alike. Plate after plate of different sushi selections rotated around and around a large conveyor belt throughout the entire restaurant. Patrons stay seated and snag an appealing plate off the belt, winding directly in front of them. Exactly like baggage claim. Except tastier and less annoying.

Here little sushi!

We ate fresh tuna, salmon, flounder, and squid. Roasted salmon belly and fatty tuna topped my list. We even tried a piece of tuna with egg yolk, which was only ok.

Tuna and eggyolk.

The grand daddy of all sushi, though, was for Will to taste. Curiously, he watched one plate spin around the conveyor, each time peaking his interest a little more than the last pass. This plate housed a pair of nigri, one piece each of a rich red flesh and a softer looking yellow one. Clearly others had tried it before, as there was only 1 plate of it left. Around it spun, forgone by egg omelet nigiri and fatty salmon. Until one rotation he’d had it. He reached out and grabbed the plate. Set it down, looked at his watch, and put the first piece in his mouth.

It was raw. He said it was chewy. It took him a while to swallow. And I don’t blame him. It was horse. He quickly plopped the other piece in his mouth, which looked chewier and clearly harder to swallow. That one was mare (which I can only assume references the female varietal?). Such a brave little soul, that one. He later declared that the mystery meat he ate at lunch the day before was also horse, after experiencing this well-labeled option. I think ‘YOLO’ is the only thing I can say to this.

We finished up, paid the bill that even Fuji-ya’s happy hour couldn’t compete with, and were off to explore what Gion nightlife was like.

From Kyoto, with love,

Sara + Will